Distance: 18.22 miles/29.32 km
Elevation gain: 3006 ft/916 m
Time: 7h 10m
The infamous climb to O Cebriero is one that everyone has been warning me about since we arrived. At least 2,772 feet (or 845 m) of elevation gain has the ability to do rough things to the body and mind.
And yet, what felt hardest about today was not the climb, but the 12mile/20km, mostly flat, mostly on pavement, ramp up to the climb. With a combination of not enough food in the morning, my first blister having formed yesterday, my knees not yet recovering from the downhill to Ponferrada, and my feet just overall hurting (because why wouldn’t they after walking 15+miles for 5 days nonstop), it was very easy to say that I was not in a good mood for a majority of the day.
Reaching Las Herrerías, one of the last towns before the elevation really starts, was a turning point. We were able to eat some food, dip my feet in the cold water of the river, change socks, and rest. Finally, feeling like a whole new person, we begin to climb.
It starts as a smooth climb on the pavement and then transitions over to a trail off to the side and into the woods, flat at first but then the steep rocky ascent starts and has no end (at least that’s how it felt like). Eventually, it was easy to get into a rhythm of breathing and climbing: deep breathe in through the nose, move the hiking poles up, exhale out the mouth as you move up. Repeat 345 times until you reach a comfortable stopping point to rest for a minute. Continue on up. It was a rhythm I thoroughly enjoyed. I was grateful to really exert my legs a bit more than the usual repetitive walking on pavement we did all day that ached my legs and feet.
We officially crossed into Galicia not far from our final destination and were greeted by a man playing bagpipes, also known as the Galician gaita, at the entrance to the town.
We bumped into our Spanish friends with whom we had dinner with back in Ponferrada. They were finishing their Camino in O Cebriero and heading back home to Valencia & Barcelona. It was a bittersweet way to end the day’s walk.
After a shower, we treated ourselves to a beer and delicious caldo gallego. We went to the peregrino mass at the nearby church and received a beautiful blessing by the priest, where he had everyone from a different country read the pilgrim blessing out loud in their language.
The day ended with dinner in a restaurant and more wine at the tavern, planning and booking our stays for the next several days.
We hope to have some easier, shorter days in the next few days before the final stages to Santiago.
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